Climb Gyalzen Peak : Something New and Enchanting in the Himalaya (October 18 to 31, 2022)

Gyalzen Peak (6,151 meters) is located in the Jugal Himal Range 145kms northeast of Kathmandu Valley and stands right at the border of Nepal and Tibet.  Though the area is in the same province as the capital of the country, the area was not often visited by climbers and trekkers as most of them wish to go to more popular areas of Everest, Annapurna, or Langtang.  However, this hidden land offers enchanting trekking and climbing experiences like any other famous destination in the Himalaya but without the crowds. There are nearly a dozen majestic peaks and some of them are still unclimbed.  As the area is just opened for trekkers and climbing, trekking and climbing trip here is a rare off the beaten trail experience in the Himalaya. 

Gyalzen Peak From Its Own Base Camp, Photo: Sharmila Lama / Three Jewels Adventures 

To reach Gyalzen peak for a climbing expedition the team first needs to drive for a short half-day along winding roads through Nepal’s mid-hill villages inhabited by a mixture of ethnicity- Hindu Kshetriya and Brahmin, Buddhist Tamang, Sherpa and Gurung people among others.  Many of the villages still support strong cultural traditions, the inhabitants are traditionally farmers and manage the rapidly vanishing culture of keeping goth(shed) for animals.  The area is also considered as one of the hidden lands (Bey Hyuls by Tibetan Buddists).

As your team reaches higher elevation they will enjoy panoramic views of the Jugal Himal Range, Langtang, Gaurishankar Himal and even part of the Tibetan Himalayan peaks. The first Nepalese team to climb Gyazen Peak was in 2019 and the following year by the second team.

Understanding the value of sustainable tourism in developing a more robust and sustainable financial future for the local population, the local people and municipality wish to bring more trekkers and climbers to the area. The peak offers one and half-day of easy to mid-level climbing from the advanced base camp to the summit and return to Base Camp.  This is an ideal expedition for those enthusiastic trekkers who want to break into the realms of mountaineering. The rewards of reaching the summit will only go on to inspire those who meet the less technical challenges this peak offers stunning unforgettable views from the summit.

As Gyazen peak is relatively close to Kathmandu trekking and climbing here are relatively cheaper as the journey time is less expensive and not dependable of on weather situations for the higher location flights as required for some other destinations. 

This area is still unknown by many trekkers and so the area is untouched by many of the negative aspects of modern tourism and by staying in local accommodation and using locally based staff you would be contributing to the financial sustainability of the region.

The local Climbing Guide for the peak is Sharmila Lama, one of the few female climbing guides in Nepal. Sharmila Lama will lead our annual trekking and climbing trip to Gyalzen peak.  Sharmila Lama, having climber four of the fourteen 8000m peak has her focus set on climbing the remaining ten 8000m peaks.  Sharmila was only the second climbing guide to successfully lead a group to climb and promote Gyalzen Peak.  Sharmila will not only ensure your team’s safe and successful climb but she will enrich your trip with her stories of what it takes to become a female mountaineer in the world's toughest mountain range with her stories of the cultural experiences she encountered during her climbing expeditions.

Gyalzen Peak Climbing and Trekking Itinerary- October 18 to 31, 2022

Day 01:      Kathmandu arrival

Day 02:      Kathmandu, meet staff, preparation, sightseeing tour

Day 03:    Kathmandu to Kyangsing 2500 meters, 7-hour drive by jeep, stay at a local home.

Day 04:   Trekking to Tembathang Village 2300 meters, 6 hours, stay at local home.

Day 05:     Trek to Tsendang 2600 meters, 6-7 hours camping.

Day 06: Trek to Ne-Pemasal 3450 meters associated to saint Padmasambhava (8th century), trek 6 hours, camping.

Day 07:  Half day (3 hours) trek to a cave and camp, rest in the afternoon for acclimatization.

Day 08:      Half day trek to base camp 4400 meters, and camp.

Day 09: Extra day to practice climbing coordination, rest and acclimatization.

Day 10:      Short trek/climb to advance base camp and rest.

Day 11:     Climb to the summit of the peak 6151 meters and return to    the camp.

Day 12:      Return trek to Dipu village and stay in local homestay.

Day 13:      Short trek to Gumba village where jeep awaits you to take     back to Kathmandu, 5 hours jeep 2 hours trekking.

Day 14:      Spare day in Kathmandu

Day 15:      International departure or return home 

Cost of the trip: US $ 1900 inclusive of everything from Day 01 to Day 15 From Kathmandu 

For Further Details:  amberkathmandu@gmail.com